Gown from The Lady's Pocket Magazine, 1824 |
Why were ankles so scandalous?
I mean, really? What was it about a woman’s ankles that inspired so many etiquette rules, that required gowns to fall all the way to the floor? It really is a mystery to me. Maybe it’s because I’m a girl, and can't understand the convoluted workings of the male brain (read: libido). But honestly, I’ve never heard of modern men making remarks about a woman’s ankles. I mean, really.
But apparently, ankles got nineteenth century gents all hot and bothered.
Here are a few quotes I dug up on ankles...
La Belle Assemblée (1806):
“A lady with a well-turned ankle should never wear her petticoats too short: cheap exhibitions soon sink into contempt.”
The Lover (Sir Richard Steele, 1714):
“We who follow Plato, or are engaged in the high passion, can see a lady’s ankle with as much indifference as her wrist: we are so inwardly taken up, that the same ideas do not spring in our imaginations, as do with the common world; we are made gentle, soft, courteous, and harmless, from the force of belle passion; of which course dunces, with an appetite for women, like that they have for beef, have no conception.”
The Mirror of Graces (by a Lady of Distinction, 1813):
“Instead of a woman of refined manners and polished habits, your imagination reverts to the gross and repelling females of Portsmout-point or Plymouth-dock; or at least to the hired opera-dancer, whose business it is to make her foot and ankle the principal object which characterizes her charms, and attract the coup d'œil of the whole assembly.”
So what's the big deal? At what point did Europeans take it into their heads that the female ankle was an erotic thing to behold? All I can think is that the sight of a lady’s ankle might clue a gentleman in to the fact that - gasp! - she possessed a pair of legs. This certainly seems the case based on the quote from The Lover, which suggests that the sight of an ankle plants "ideas" into gentleman's "imaginations." Yet it seems funny that ankles were so dangerous a sight, when the evening wear many young ladies wore was so generous in displays of cleavage. Case in point:
There's not a whole lot to that neckline. But no ankles, so modesty remains intact! |
Ah, Regency logic. One would think that breasts would inspire more "ideas" than ankles. But, of course, those were different times.
Of course, we are talking about upper class women here. The lower classes couldn’t afford to worry about baring their ankles. They actually had to work for their living. Horrors!
Problem is, a LOT of early nineteenth century fashion plates display an eyeful of feminine ankles. Here's a few examples:
Click to enlarge and examine the profusion of ankle! |
I'm assuming it's because most of these images depict evening gowns, which had to be short enough to allow women to dance without tripping on their hem. Also, evening wear tended to be a good deal more revealing than their daytime counterparts. This makes me wonder...what was all the fuss about, when a man could ogle all the female ankles he liked at just about every assembly or ball he went to?
Of course, fashions changed, and quickly. The Regency was, in general, a more scantily clad era than than those which preceded and succeeded it. The 1880's evening gowns pictured below barely show feet, let alone ankles:
Of course, fashions changed, and quickly. The Regency was, in general, a more scantily clad era than than those which preceded and succeeded it. The 1880's evening gowns pictured below barely show feet, let alone ankles:
Good Victorian ladies pretended they didn't have ankles. |
Despite a pretty thorough online search, I'm still haven't found any concrete reason why bare ankles were considered to be so naughty by our forbears. I'm sure there is plenty of research and academic papers out there on the subject, but I have yet to come across them. If anyone knows of any sources, please enlighten me!
Who knows? Maybe it was a chicken and the egg situation...did women cover up their ankles because men found them sexy, or did men find ankles sexy because women always kept them covered? We may never know. Or do we already know, and I'm just missing something?
So first post...it looks like I'm signing off with more questions and answers. But the lovely foray into Google Books and combing through fashion plates made it worthwhile!
So first post...it looks like I'm signing off with more questions and answers. But the lovely foray into Google Books and combing through fashion plates made it worthwhile!